The Costa del Sol has a reputation for high-rises and full English breakfasts, but drive east of Málaga and it changes character completely. Here the coast is greener, the towns are whitewashed and the pace slows right down. Nerja and its hillside neighbour Frigiliana are the two that everyone falls for.
Nerja and the Balcón de Europa
Nerja's centre is built around the Balcón de Europa, a palm-lined promenade that juts out over the sea on the site of an old fortress, with cliffs and coves falling away on either side. Below it are some of the best beaches on this stretch — Calahonda, Burriana — tucked between headlands. A few kilometres out of town, the Caves of Nerja are a vast complex of caverns hung with one of the world's largest stalactites, used as a concert venue in summer.
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Frigiliana, up the hill
A short, steep drive inland brings you to Frigiliana, regularly voted one of the prettiest villages in Spain. Its Moorish old town is a vertical tangle of cobbled lanes, blinding white walls, blue pots and cascading geraniums. There is little to do but wander, drink a glass of the local sweet wine and admire the views back down to the coast — which is precisely the appeal.
Getting there
Málaga airport (AGP) is around an hour west by road. The villages themselves are steep and the parking is limited, so a private transfer straight to your hotel saves a lot of circling narrow streets with a hire car. Book a transfer to Nerja or see our private transfers in Nerja.
